How to Make Your Own Circuit Board - By MITK12Videos
Transcript
| 00:11 | in this video , we're going to show you how | |
| 00:12 | you can make your own circuit board circus are part | |
| 00:15 | of your everyday life , including phones , computers and | |
| 00:18 | even lights . Today we're going to see in the | |
| 00:20 | dark by building our own mini flashlight . We start | |
| 00:27 | off by drawing what we want to make on the | |
| 00:28 | computer . This means that we can check that our | |
| 00:30 | design is good and also helps us to get an | |
| 00:33 | accurate final circuit that all of our parts will fit | |
| 00:35 | into . This also allows us to easily change and | |
| 00:38 | print the circuit . Next we take the circuit that | |
| 00:42 | we've made on the computer and printed out with a | |
| 00:44 | laser printer onto some glossy magazine paper . We now | |
| 00:47 | have an image of our circuit on paper . We | |
| 00:51 | take a board that's covered with a thin layer of | |
| 00:53 | copper called copper clad , which you can buy online | |
| 00:56 | or at an electronics hobby store . This board will | |
| 00:59 | end up being our actual circuit . First we cut | |
| 01:02 | it to the same size as our paper circuit . | |
| 01:04 | We score it on both sides with a utility knife | |
| 01:07 | and then it snaps pretty easily . We finished repairing | |
| 01:10 | this by wiping it down with some acetone to get | |
| 01:13 | rid of dirt and fingerprints to get the image that | |
| 01:18 | we went on the board , we take the paper | |
| 01:20 | to the copper board so that the toner is touching | |
| 01:23 | the copper . Then we set a clothes iron to | |
| 01:26 | its highest temperature and we press down on the board | |
| 01:28 | as hard as we can for about five minutes . | |
| 01:31 | When we heat the board with the paper circuit , | |
| 01:33 | the plastic and the toner will melt and stick to | |
| 01:35 | the copper . In the next step , we use | |
| 01:38 | this melted toner like a stencil to get rid of | |
| 01:41 | the copper that we don't want on our final board | |
| 01:46 | to remove the paper from the copper , we dunk | |
| 01:48 | the entire board into water and wait a couple minutes | |
| 01:52 | . Then we peel the paper right off the copper | |
| 01:55 | , leaving the toner against the copper . Sometimes the | |
| 01:58 | hot iron does not melt the entire circuit onto the | |
| 02:01 | copper so we take a permanent marker and pencil in | |
| 02:04 | the parts that the iron missed . Now we're going | |
| 02:07 | to edge the board , We're going to use a | |
| 02:10 | chemical called ferric chloride , which you can buy online | |
| 02:13 | or at an electronics hobby store , ferric chloride removes | |
| 02:16 | the copper that isn't covered by the toner . It | |
| 02:19 | will react with metals but it won't react with plastic | |
| 02:22 | , it will stain pretty much anything it touches bright | |
| 02:25 | yellow . So we've put down a plastic garbage bag | |
| 02:28 | and put on safety glasses to protect our eyes . | |
| 02:32 | The board needs to sit in the ferric chloride for | |
| 02:34 | 10 minutes or so , depending on how vigorously you | |
| 02:37 | stir it . If we pull it out halfway , | |
| 02:40 | we see that the copper towards the outside of the | |
| 02:42 | board has disappeared . Now that we've gotten rid of | |
| 02:46 | the extra copper , we can get rid of this | |
| 02:48 | toner . We wipe it away with some more acetone | |
| 02:51 | and now we can see the shiny copper circuit that | |
| 02:55 | matches our original paper circuit . Next we need to | |
| 02:59 | drill holes into the board so that we can put | |
| 03:02 | the parts of the circuit onto the board . We | |
| 03:05 | use a small drill bit that is smaller than the | |
| 03:07 | circles on our printed circuit . We also drill on | |
| 03:10 | top of another piece of wood to make sure we | |
| 03:12 | don't damage other surfaces . Now we're ready to put | |
| 03:17 | the circuit together To attach the parts to our circuit | |
| 03:20 | board , will use a soldering iron . This tool | |
| 03:23 | gets really hot 700°F and melt a special metal called | |
| 03:27 | Sauder onto our board . In parts it's like glue | |
| 03:30 | for electronics . We'll attach the battery holder switch resistor | |
| 03:35 | and led , making sure to put the led in | |
| 03:37 | the right orientation while sauntering . It's important to heat | |
| 03:41 | both the part and the board and then let the | |
| 03:44 | slaughter of melt by touching those instead of the soldering | |
| 03:47 | iron . This ensures that the cider will provide a | |
| 03:50 | good electrical and mechanical connection . Notice that we saw | |
| 03:54 | her everything with wires on the same side as the | |
| 03:57 | copper except for the battery holder because the copper on | |
| 04:00 | the board actually connects to one side of the battery | |
| 04:05 | . Now that we've put everything together , we can | |
| 04:07 | test it . If we flip the switch , the | |
| 04:09 | light turns on everything is amazing . Finally , when | |
| 04:17 | you're cleaning up , please don't dump the ferric chloride | |
| 04:20 | straight down the drain . It will hurt the environment | |
| 04:22 | and corrode your plumbing . Instead , neutralize it by | |
| 04:25 | slowly pouring in baking soda until it stops reacting . | |
| 04:29 | It will film a lot . Once it's neutralized , | |
| 04:32 | it is safe to pour down the drain |
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