The curious thing about Southern food is that people everywhere think they know what it is – and they all say the same thing: grits, fried chicken, biscuits. Those were the first foods mentioned when I asked Julia Child, a famous chef, on the subject. Californian Marion Cunningham answered the same but added salty ham. Both declared they love Southern food but were a little vague in elaborating. The Child had just completed a segment of her "America’s Master Chefs" cooking show with Leah Chase of Dooky Chase restaurant in New Orleans, which brought to mind sweet potato pie, a venerable Southern staple. As we talked, she recalled a visit to Birmingham, Alabama, years ago and the “great barbecued ribs and greasy Southern greens” she devoured at a local eatery.

What do most people think southern food is?